
Jack stands are already the cheap part of the kit, which makes this a short page with a clear conclusion: a double-locking pair with a published ASME statement costs very little more than the cheapest thing on the shelf, and it is the pair we would buy. The rest of this page is about what you are actually choosing between.
Where cost comes out
| What changes | Cheap stand | Does it matter? |
|---|---|---|
| Locking mechanism | Single ratchet bar | Yes — redundancy is the main safety feature available |
| Saddle | Curved axle cradle, bare steel | Yes, on a unibody car with a flat sill |
| Base size | Smaller footprint | Yes on asphalt, less so on good concrete |
| Increment size | Coarse ratchet teeth | Moderate — coarse steps make matching two stands harder |
| Finish | Thinner paint | No, cosmetic |
| Rating basis | Often quoted per pair | Read it — it is not a cost cut, it is a disclosure difference |
The two things never worth saving money on
First, redundancy. A second independent lock is the cheapest meaningful safety upgrade in the whole category. Skipping it to save a few dollars on a product whose entire job is holding a car above your body is a poor trade.
Second, buying stands at all. The genuinely dangerous budget decision is not a cheap pair of stands — it is a jack and no stands. If the choice is a better jack or any stands, buy the stands.
Used stands: when it is fine and when it is not
A used steel jack stand can be perfectly serviceable, because there is very little in one to wear out. Inspect for three things and walk away if you find any of them: cracked or re-welded joints, deformed or rounded ratchet teeth, and a bent column or pin. Also walk away if you cannot identify the model well enough to check its rating and recall history.
Check them before the first use
1.Set both stands to the same notch and stand them side by side
They should be the same height. If they are not, one is damaged or they are not a matched pair.
2.Work the lock through its full travel
The ratchet should engage positively at every tooth and the pin should slide freely and fully home.
3.Look at the welds around the base
Visible cracks, porosity or a base that rocks on a flat floor means the stand is scrap.

