An oil change is the right first job. It is forgiving, it is on a schedule so you will repeat it, and it saves real money. It also has one classic failure mode — a weeping drain plug — which is almost always caused by re-using a one-dollar washer.
The complete list
| Item | Why | The mistake people make |
|---|---|---|
| Ramps, or a jack and stands | Access underneath | Using a jack alone and going under it |
| Two wheel chocks | Stop the car rolling | Relying on the parking brake |
| Low-profile drain pan | Catch the oil | A pan too tall to fit under the sump |
| Socket or square drive for the drain plug | Remove the plug | Using an adjustable wrench and rounding it |
| New crush washer | Seal the plug | Re-using the old one — the main cause of leaks |
| Correct oil filter wrench | Remove the filter | Buying the wrong type for your filter |
| Correct oil and filter | The actual consumables | Wrong grade, or guessing capacity |
| Funnel and rags | Fill without spilling | Skipping the funnel |
| Torque wrench (3/8 in) | Tighten the plug to spec | Over-tightening into an aluminum sump |
The filter wrench is where people go wrong
There are two completely different filter types and they need different tools. Look at your engine before buying anything:
Cartridge filter
A plastic or metal cap on top of the engine, with a replaceable paper element inside. You need a cap-style socket sized to that specific cap, driven by a ratchet. Advantages: it is on top of the engine, so you need much less clearance underneath, and the element is often cheaper.
Spin-on filter
A metal canister screwed to the engine, usually underneath. You need a band, claw or cap wrench sized to the canister diameter. This is the type that needs real clearance to reach, and the type that dumps oil down your arm if you loosen it in the wrong order.
The crush washer, specifically
Most drain plugs seal with a soft metal washer designed to deform once and conform to both surfaces. Re-using it means the crushed washer no longer deforms, so people compensate by over-tightening — which in an aluminum sump can strip the thread and turn a routine service into a repair.
Buy a new washer with the filter. They cost almost nothing and they are the single highest-value item on this list relative to price.
Ramps or a jack?
For this job specifically, ramps are the better tool: drive up, done, no load transfer, nothing hydraulic holding the car. The exceptions are a car too low to climb the ramp, and a situation where you want the car dead level for draining.
Best ramps for an oil change covers how much lift you actually need, which depends on your filter type. And note: a car on ramps is nose-up, so do not set the final oil level up there — fill short, come down, check on level ground.
The four numbers to look up first
The short version
- Oil grade and specification (not just the viscosity — the manufacturer spec matters)
- Oil capacity with a filter change
- Drain plug torque figure
- Filter part number, and cap socket size if it is a cartridge type
All four come from your manual or the manufacturer's service information. We do not publish them, because a wrong capacity or torque figure does real damage.
Disposal, which is not optional
Used oil is a regulated waste and pouring it away is both illegal and genuinely harmful. Most auto parts retailers accept used oil free, and many accept used filters. Take the drained oil in a sealed container — the empty bottles from the new oil work perfectly — and do it the same day, because a pan of oil on a garage floor gets knocked over.