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JACK & TORQUE

Guide

How to Use Car Ramps

Seven steps. Six of them happen before the car moves, which is the point.

By Ryder M. · Published September 26, 2026 · Last reviewed September 26, 2026

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How to Use Car Ramps — ranked picks with scores and a price check for each
#PickCapacityScorePrice
1
A car at the entrance of a service station lit at night
RhinoGear RhinoRamps MAX (11912)Ramps that make step two forgiving
16,000 lb GVW per pair8.9
2
A car tire resting on a cobblestone road
Camco 44472 Wheel Chock with RopeThe chock step seven needs
8-1/8 in x 4-5/8 in x 5-3/8 in9.0
3
Low-angle view of a low-slung sports car sitting close to the ground
Race Ramps RR-56-2 (56 in, Two-Piece)If step five keeps going wrong
1,500 lb per ramp (6,000 lb vehicle)8.8

Photographs on this page are licensed stock images that show the category, not the exact model, and not anything we own. We have no test rig and claim none.

A mechanic in a blue uniform holding wrenches inside an auto repair shop

Before the car moves

Most of the work here is preparation, and it is the reason this is a short procedure with a good safety record when followed.

  1. 1.Check the rating

    Your door-jamb sticker gives gross vehicle weight rating. Compare it against the most restrictive figure the ramp publishes — GVW per pair, or per-ramp load. See best car ramps for how the three rating styles differ.

  2. 2.Sweep the floor

    Where the ramp base will sit, and along the approach. Loose grit acts as rollers under a ramp base. This step is free and it prevents the most common failure.

  3. 3.Place the ramps touching the tires

    Butt each ramp's leading edge against the front face of the tire so there is no gap to kick it into, and line them up straight ahead — not angled. Check both sides are the same distance from the wheel.

  4. 4.Get a spotter if you can

    From the driver's seat you cannot see a ramp beginning to move. Someone standing clear and to the side can.

Driving on

  1. 1.Walking pace, straight, steady throttle

    Enough to climb, no more. If a tire spins or the car stops climbing, come back off and look at why. The answer is almost always grit, a crooked ramp, or an approach angle your car cannot clear — see ramp angle and clearance.

  2. 2.Stop on the flat, in the middle

    You are aiming for the middle of the landing, not the front edge. A short wedge gives a small landing, so this needs a bit of attention the first few times.

  3. 3.Secure and chock

    Engine off. Automatic in park, manual in gear. Parking brake on. Chock behind a rear wheel — on both sides if the floor has any slope. Then push the car firmly at a corner: nothing should move, including the ramps.

While you are under there

The car is supported by its own wheels, which is stable and reassuring. Two things to stay aware of:

  • Do not undo anything that carries load. Suspension components, wheel fasteners, anything holding the car's weight path together stays where it is.
  • Keep your legs out from behind the rear wheels. If the car were ever to roll, that is the direction it goes.

The car is also nose-up, which matters for fluid levels. Do not set a final oil level on the ramps — see best ramps for an oil change.

Coming off

Everything out from under the car first — tools, drain pan, creeper, the lot. Remove the chock. Start the engine, release the parking brake, and reverse straight back down at the same walking pace you came up. Do not turn the wheel while the tires are on the ramp surface; come down straight and steer once you are on the floor.

Mistakes worth naming

The short version

  • Leaving a gap between the ramp and the tire, so the tire kicks the ramp forward
  • Adding throttle when the bumper touches the ramp
  • Approaching at an angle rather than straight on
  • Stopping with a tire near the front edge of the landing
  • Forgetting the rear chock because the parking brake feels sufficient
  • Turning the steering wheel while still on the ramps on the way down

The picks in full

Every pick, in detail

A car at the entrance of a service station lit at night

1. Ramps that make step two forgiving

RhinoGear RhinoRamps MAX (11912)

RhinoGear · score 8.9/10

16,000 lb GVW rating, a 17-degree incline and a non-skid base — the default answer for oil changes on anything that is not slammed.

A non-skid base is the feature that directly addresses the sliding failure — it does not remove the need to sweep, it just gives you margin when you forget. 16,000 lb GVW per pair.

Published specifications

Capacity
16,000 lb GVW per pair Retail listing
Incline
17 degrees Retail listing
Base
CoreTRAC non-skid Retail listing
Material
Reinforced resin Retail listing

What works

  • GVW rating covers almost any car, crossover or half-ton pickup
  • Non-skid base is the feature that stops the classic ramp-slides-away scare
  • Nesting shape stores against a garage wall

What you give up

  • A 17-degree incline is too steep for low front bumpers
  • Ramps only ever support the front axle — wheels stay on
  • Resin ramps need a flat, clean surface to be trustworthy

Our scoring

  • Fit & reach8.4
  • Safety margin8.8
  • Beginner ease9.4
  • Build quality8.4
  • Value9.2
Check price on Amazon

#ad No price shown — we have no live feed. How this is funded

Specifications published by RhinoGear — we earn nothing from that link.

A car tire resting on a cobblestone road

2. The chock step seven needs

Camco 44472 Wheel Chock with Rope

Camco · score 9.0/10

A UV-stable plastic chock with a pull rope, sized for tires up to 26 in — the cheapest part of a safe lift and the one people skip.

For tires up to 26 in, with a 23 in rope so retrieving it does not mean reaching under the car. Two is the right number to own.

Published specifications

Dimensions
8-1/8 in x 4-5/8 in x 5-3/8 in Camco
Fits tires
Up to 26 in Camco
Rope
23 in Camco
Material
Hard plastic with UV inhibitors Camco

What works

  • The rope means you can pull it out without reaching under the car
  • Costs less than a single lug nut and stops the car rolling
  • UV inhibitors mean it survives being left outside

What you give up

  • Camco states it is not for commercial trucks or trailers
  • Plastic can slide on a dusty or oily floor
  • Sold singly — buy two

Our scoring

  • Fit & reach8.8
  • Safety margin8.8
  • Beginner ease9.6
  • Build quality8.2
  • Value9.6
Check price on Amazon

#ad No price shown — we have no live feed. How this is funded

Specifications published by Camco — we earn nothing from that link.

Low-angle view of a low-slung sports car sitting close to the ground

3. If step five keeps going wrong

Race Ramps RR-56-2 (56 in, Two-Piece)

Race Ramps · score 8.8/10

A 10.8-degree approach angle and 8 in of lift on solid high-density foam — the ramp for a car that scrapes on everything else.

A car that will not climb smoothly usually has an angle problem. 10.8 degrees over 56 in, with 8 in of lift, is the fix rather than more throttle.

Published specifications

Capacity
1,500 lb per ramp (6,000 lb vehicle) Race Ramps
Approach angle
10.8 degrees Race Ramps
Lift height
8 in Race Ramps
Length
56 in Race Ramps
Material
Solid high-density foam, anti-slip coating Race Ramps

What works

  • Shallowest approach angle here — clears low front lips
  • Two-piece design lets you remove the ramp section for side access
  • 8 in of lift is more than any plastic ramp in this set

What you give up

  • 1,500 lb per ramp limits it to lighter vehicles — check your axle weight
  • 56 in of ramp needs real garage depth
  • By far the most expensive ramps here

Our scoring

  • Fit & reach9.6
  • Safety margin8.6
  • Beginner ease9.0
  • Build quality9.2
  • Value6.8
Check price on Amazon

#ad No price shown — we have no live feed. How this is funded

Specifications published by Race Ramps — we earn nothing from that link.

Method

How these picks were chosen

We did not test these tools. We do not run a laboratory, we have not loaded a jack to failure or checked a wrench on a calibration bench, and we will not tell you otherwise. What we did instead is read the published manufacturer specifications, check the figures that matter against the safety standard that applies to portable automotive lifting equipment, and work out which tool suits which job. Every number on this page links to where it came from, so you can check us.

The five things we score are the five that decide a first purchase: will it fit under and lift your car, how much safety margin the rating and the locking mechanism leave you, how hard it is to get right alone in a driveway, what the materials and published standards say about how long it lasts, and what the money buys against the rest of the field.

Read the full method — including how we pick a top pick, and why we publish no prices.

Questions

Frequently asked questions

+How fast should I drive onto car ramps?

Walking pace, with steady throttle and no correction. Speed is what turns a marginal setup into a sliding ramp.

+Should the ramps touch the tires before I drive on?

Yes. Butt them against the front face of each tire. A gap gives the tire a chance to kick the ramp forward rather than climb it.

+Do I need to chock the wheels if the parking brake is on?

Yes. The parking brake usually acts on the rear wheels only and it is not designed as the sole restraint on an incline. A chock is cheap and it is mechanical.

+Can I use only one ramp to lift one side?

No. Driving one wheel up a ramp leaves the car twisted and unstable, and it puts an uneven load on the ramp. Use ramps in pairs, one per front wheel.

+How do I get off the ramps?

Clear everything from under the car, remove the chock, then reverse straight back down at walking pace without turning the wheel until the tires are on the floor.

Sources

Where these figures come from

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